724 Vine Street
Hollywood, CA 90038
ph: (323) 962-6369
Old grape varieties fall out of favor because they're cantankerous to grow, low yielding, or no longer suit contemporary, conformist notions of what wine should taste like.
But remember the first time you saw an heirloom apple? Its mottled, uneven surface may not have conformed to your cartoonish icon of Red Deliciousness, but any doubts were erased after your first bite.
We embrace cranky old grape varieties and the exciting new (er, old) flavors and aromas they open up for us.
Here are just a few of the wines made from heirloom grape varieties you might find at Lou (not all at the same time):
Jacky Preys’ fresh and lively fie gris, an old Loire variety and possibly the mother of sauvignon blanc—produced from pre-phylloxera vines, too!
Not far from Mr. Preys you'll find the last bastion of the medieval grape variety pineau d'aunis, favored by Henry III of England and tended to lovingly by winegrowers such as Thierry Puzelat and Eric Nicolas.
Walter Massa's resuscitation of the unique old Piemontese white grape variety timorasso.
Ijalba's unique Riojas, produced from 100 percent maturana tinto or graciano (organically grown).
You'll find wines such as these, and many others, every night at Lou.
We pour by the 2oz "taste," 5oz "glass," and by the bottle. Our wine list changes several times a week; here's a sample of what we do.
St Peter’s English Ale organic
Bison Brewing Organic Golden Bock organic
Reinaert Flemish “wild ale” 750ml
w/wild yeast; barnyardy & complex
Dupont brut cider Normandy organic
Rosé di Valmonte raboso, pinot noir
Italy/Veneto Col di Luna
Montlouis sur Loire Brut chenin blanc
France/Loire – Chidaine NV biodynamic
Kir Royale above w/Chermette organic crème de cassis (is this the most fabulous cassis? yes, it is)
Quincy sauvignon blanc
France/Loire · Sorbe ’05 · fresh, grassy, in yer face sauvignon
Riesling
WA/Columbia Valley Charles Smith “Kungfu Girl” ‘06
Pinot Blanc
France/Alsace Marcel Deiss “Bergheim” ’03 biodynamic
Thermenregion zierfandler, rotgipfler
Austria Spaetrot Gebeshuber "Klassik" '05
Colli Toronesi timorasso
Italy/Piemonte Massa '05
Schoffit
France/Alsace Schoffit '"Vielles Vignes" '05 organic
Priorat grenache blanc
Spain/Mas Igneus “FA 104” — First Priorat winegrower to grow organically; soulful, soft, slightly nutty
Cour-Cheverny romorantin
France/Loire Tessier "La Porte Doree"
Cairanne roussanne, marsanne
France/Rhône Alary “La Font d’Estévenas” ‘05 licorice-y notes
Burgundy chardonnay
France Dupont-Fahn '06 declassified Mersault
Rioja Maturana Tinta
Spain Ijalba '03 hierloom grape variety organic
Côtes du Rhône grenache, syrah
France/Rhône Les Aphillanthes ’04 biodynamic
Ribeira Sacra mencia
Spain Ventura "Vina Canerio" '06 80 yr old vines, zero oak
Le Telquel gamay, pineau d'aunis, grolleau
France/Loire Puzelat '05 organic
Alto Adige lagrein
Italy/Hofstätter ’05 minerality +, restrained, chocolate finish
Côteaux du Languedoc syrah & cinsault
France/Christophe Beau “Danse des Ceps” ’03 biodynamic
Rheinhessen st. laurent
Germany Becker Landgraf "Luca" '05
Cotes du Rousillon carignan grenache
France/Roussillon Gauby "Vielles Vignes" '03 biodynamic
Langhe freisa
Italy/Piemonte Boschis ’05 – country cousin of nebbiolo & not for everyone; light bodied, refreshing, unassuming, lightly fizzy; dusty raspberries & a dash of bitterness. Great with charcuterie.
Pinot Noir
CA/Marin Pey-Marin "Les Trois Filles" ’05 organic
Empordà old vines grenache, carignan, & etc. Spain/Martí Fabra “Selecció Vinyes Velles” ’03 ripe; quite a mouthful of wine
Zinfandel
Sonoma · Bucklin Old Hill Ranch ’05 dry farmed on the oldest vineyard in Sonoma; ultra-old vine field blend, organic
Saint-Joseph syrah
France/Rhône Les Vins de Vienne
“L’Arzelle” ’05
Carignan
CA/Mendocino Coturri "Testa Vineyards" 70 yr old vines ’05 organic
Cabernet Franc
CA/Carneros Sinskey '04 organic
Sauternes sauvignon blanc, semillon, muscadelle
France/Bordeaux · des Ormes ‘00
Tawny Port
Casal dos Jordões organic
Banyuls grenache
France/Roussillon · Pietri-Geraud ’98
Malaga muscat
Spain Ordonez “1” ’05 organic

Grape vines can be quite long-lived, even after they've been sadly neglected for years in abandoned vineyards. In parts of Spain (e.g., Jumilla) and France, it is not uncommon to find vines that are just coming into their own at 80 years of age. Indeed, Bruno Ribiere's "Empreinte Du Temps," which we serve at Lou, is made from pre-phylloxera carignan vines that are over 128 years old.

Sagranantino vine over 150 years old growing outside the walls of Montefalco.
There is no consensus among winegrowers as to what constitutes an old vine—is it 15 years of age (probably not), thirty years (getting warmer), or fifty years (definitely)? In any event, we go out of our way to locate and offer old vine wines because old vines often produce exceptional wines.
Old vines are interesting to wine drinkers for a number of reasons. Here are a few:
As vines age they begin to devote their productive energy to grape production rather than vegetative growth. The grapes themselves become smaller and fewer in number, and smaller grapes = more flavorful wine (because the skin to pulp ratio is higher, and a lot of a wine's character originates in grape skins).
Some grape varieties, carignan from Roussillon, in particular, switch gears as they get older: a carignan vine that produces useful but unexciting wine for the first fifty years of its life will only began to come into its own when its in its eighties.
Sometimes an isolated patch of old vines is the last living remnant of a lovely old heirloom grape variety that fell out of favor for no good reason. The viognier grape, for example, was nearly extinct until George Vernay revived it during the 1940s.
724 Vine Street
Hollywood, CA 90038
ph: (323) 962-6369